The term “thread” in apparel manufacturing can be interpreted in a number of ways. Manufacturers can choose to talk about the thread count, size of the threads, ply, tensile strength, or the good quality of the overall thread, and all of the above are commonly misunderstood. This has to be understood because using a sewing thread that doesn’t meet the requirement chosen from one specification only can create substandard seams, production difficulties, and increased cost.
Apparel manufacturers should not just pick a certain size or thickness of the recycled sewing thread. Rather, it is necessary to take into account the full performance profile of the thread, such as stringency and extensibility, abrasion resistance, consistency, finish, and ability to sew with the fabric.
What Does Thread Count Even Mean?
There are various definitions of the terms count. In textile-related terms, the term “thread count” typically means the number of warp and weft threads used in a fabric within a 1-by-1 square meter area. The measurement is thus mainly one of fabric construction and does not really provide a true indication of the quality of the sewing thread used.
Sewing threads are more likely to be discussed with the manufacturers with regard to sewing thread size, ticket number, denier, tex, or other methods of describing linear density. These measurements see the thread’s fineness or weight but do not necessarily imply performance.
A thicker thread could lend more visual weight and possibly strength for the fabric but might not be appropriate for lightweight fabric. Likewise, a thin thread can produce good seams but might not be strong enough for heavier-duty clothing.
Understanding Thread Quality
Thread quality is related to its ability to function during production and as part of the garment’s life. It consists of several characteristics, not just one measurable thing.
Key factors affecting the quality of thread are the following:
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Tensile strength
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Elongation and recovery
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Abrasion resistance
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Uniformity and consistency
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Lubrication and finish
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Colorfastness
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Thermal resistance
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Chemical resistance
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Low lint generation
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Smooth unwinding performance
The quality of thread (recycled polyester thread) should flow in the sewing machine, maintain good tension, create good stitches, and provide strength to the finished product.
Why Thread Size and Quality Must Work Together
Choosing the right thread size is crucial, but the size is not enough on its own to ensure the performance of the seams. The material must be capable of being used with the fabric thickness, construction type, type of stitch, needle, and purpose for the thread and fabric.
A very thick thread can lead to ugly seams, puckering, or showing the seams on very delicate shirts, lingerie, or fashion items. Alternatively, a very fine thread in work clothing or when wearing thick outer clothing might not provide good seam strength.
A better strategy is to choose a thread capable of performing the job and then determine if the desired characteristics are satisfactory.
The Importance of Thread Consistency
One of the most important qualities of a good sewing thread is its uniformity. Even if the thread is strong, the thread can be different in thickness and also in construction, which may lead to trouble while sewing at high speed.
Inconsistent threads could cause the following:
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Uneven stitches
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Variable thread tension
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Frequent thread breaks
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Needle heating
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Poor seam appearance
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Increased machine downtime
Some of the apparatus of factories for manufacturing garments work very rapidly with sewing machines. Inconsistencies can then be important production issues if occurring in thousands of garments.
The quality thread should be uniform throughout the cones and batches.
Thread Finish and Lubrication
Finish used on sewing threads can greatly affect their sewing performance. A well-lubricated machine keeps the thread flowing freely between guides, tension discs, needles, and fabric.
An appropriate finish can help to reduce friction, make seams easier to sew, minimize thread pull-out, and keep the needle cooler during high-speed operations.
A finish needs to be suitable for a particular use. Overcoats or incorrect finishes may interfere with the good appearance of the fabric, cause difficulty in downstream finishing, or have severe compatibility issues with some treatments.
This is another proof that you cannot determine thread quality by just its appearance and size.
Matching Thread to the Garment
Various garments have various sorts of thread attributes. While an everyday shirt manufacturer may be more concerned with seaming effortlessly and making sure the shirts look good, an industrial uniform manufacturer might be more concerned about making sure the product is strong and resistant to abrasion.
For example:
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Lightweight clothing: Smooth threads will minimize discoloration and help form discreet seams in lightweight clothes.
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Workwear and denim: Abrasion resistance and strength are generally preferred for high-stress seams.
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Sportswear: Threads may require a mix of strength and flexibility, depending on the various types of movement involved.
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Children’s clothing: Smoothness, durability, and compliance with applicable safety requirements are important considerations.
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Outerwear: Moisture repellency and resistance to temperature and wear/tear can be especially beneficial.
Thus, the best thread is not just a single numerical value but is dependent on the use of the garment.
How Poor Thread Selection Affects Production
A thread that is just depending on the thread count alone, the size alone, or the price alone can result in unanticipated manufacturing costs. A wrong or incompatible thread can result in frequent thread breakage, slowed sewing, rework, or faulty seams.
It may also have an impact on the final product. Seam puckering, loose stitches, skipped stitches, and how the seams look on the surface can impact perceived quality and rejection.
In some instances, a higher-quality thread will cost a little more, but in return, it will translate into a better production yield and overall lower cost.
Conclusion
The choice of thread for textile applications should not be made only based on buying considerations but rather as a technical problem. Instead of counting by threads in a square inch or thread size, the quality of a thread is the most important factor in deciding how a thread will work during the process of manufacture and when the garment is worn.
The best way to do this is to coordinate the size and strength of the thread, its extensibility, abrasion resistance, finish, uniformity, and usability in applications. Through this process, manufacturers can optimize the quality of their seams, minimize downtime in production, and deliver high-quality, long-lasting garments.
Finally, the thicker, finer, or more expensive one is not always the right thread. It is the one that offers the proper combination of performance, reliability, and compatibility with the garment.